Antique Vintage Nouveau 14k Gold Mughal Turquoise Seed Pearl Wedding Bracelet

Description

We have similar Mughal and Art Nouveau items, which would pair nicely with this piece, up for auction this week. To view in separate listings, please visit our store and search “Mughal” or “Nouveau” under our auction items.
Listing Description by: Angela A.
The Piece
Auction Estimate:
$5,000 – $10,000
Age Circa:
Art Nouveau C. 1890 – 1910
Markings:
Unmarked, tested, and guaranteed
Country of Origin:
India
Brand:
Unknown
Gram Weight:
41.9 grams
Metal Type:
14k rose gold
Item Weight Value:
$1,430.00 (value all-inclusive weight)
Material:
—
Main Stone:
Turquoise
Main Stone Measurements/Color:
Carat weight:
approximately 2.90 carats
Diameter:
2.06 mm to 4.7 mm
Depth:
approximately 1 mm to 2.77 mm
Color:
opaque bright blue hue
Accent Stone:
Seed pearl
Accent Stone Measurements/Color:
Diameter:
1.68 mm to 2.52 mm
Color:
lustrous white hue
Stone Treatment:
The stone(s) appear to be untreated, but we are not certified gemologists. Stone(s) have been tested and guaranteed using a professional Presidium Duo refractive, heat, and hardness tester.
Stone Cuts:
Round cabochon cut turquoise, naturally rounded and polished seed pearls
Item Measurements:
Wearable length and inner circumference:
7.06″
Wrist gap, when closed:
2.20″
When opened, the wrist gap measures:
4.40″
Band width:
0.36″ to 0.51″
Band depth:
0.33″ to 0.58″
Bracelet Type:
Hinged bangle bracelet
Closure/Clasp Type:
Push-in locking box clasp
Link Type:
Rounded and polished rose gold band
Notable Features:
This bracelet was handmade during the Art Nouveau era. Composed of 14k rose gold, the bracelet features stunning turquoise and seed pearls. The style of the piece suggests it was made in India in the style of Mughal jewelry, which was fashionable during the Art Nouveau era. Known for their ornate and elaborate jewelry, Mughal pieces typically features high purity gold, intricate designs, and generous use of precious, colorful stones, qualities which can be seen in this pendant. Often, Mughal style jewelry was purchased by English soldiers stationed in India, who would purchase such pieces as gifts to send back home to loved ones or to use as wedding jewelry.
Fascinating pieces of history, wedding bracelets were especially popular during the Victorian era, which saw a revival of Renaissance influences in art and jewelry, and subsequent eras continued the tradition of using these bracelets.
Traditionally wedding bracelets were used in place of an engagement and wedding ring, often in sets or pairs–one given upon engagement, and the other gifted on the day of the wedding.
The face of the bracelet features a total of fifty turquoise stones, each showcasing a bright blue hue prized in this variety of stone. Each turquoise contains a hand-cleaved round cabochon cut which beautifully displays this hue. These turquoise stones rest in rose gold prong settings, the warm hue of the rose gold a lovely contrast to the cooler blue hues of the turquoise. The turquoise adorn the center and sides of floral and foliate motifs which repeat throughout the band’s face. These lovely openwork designs also create eye-catching negative space. The largest turquoise stone rests at the center of the band, resting in a bezel setting which raises the stone off the band’s face. This turquoise is framed on each side by a hand-hammered rounded design which adds elegance to the piece. Throughout the band, the petals and accents of the floral motifs are decorated with a total of seventy-seven seed pearls, each with a white hue and lovely luster which appears as light moves across the round faces of the pearls. These pearls also rest in rose gold prong settings, their white hues drawing the eye to the piece.
Completing the bracelet is a 14k rose gold hinge and locking box clasp for comfortable and secure wear. The generous use of 14k rose gold gives the bracelet an incredible item weight value of $1,430. The generous use of so many valuable and lustrous stones in this piece is a clear evocation of the glamorous and decadent jewelry associated with the Mughal period. A classic example of
Mughal wedding jewelry from the Art Nouveau era, this bracelet would make a valuable addition to any antique jewelry collection as well as an excellent gift for a bride in search of “something old.” Don’t miss your chance to preserve this piece of cultural history.
Damage:
Age appropriate wear. There are two turquoise stones missing from their settings, which measure 2.5 mm in diameter; this can be replaced by your local jeweler. There are also three seed pearls missing from the bracelet, measuring approximately 2.5 mm in diameter; these can also be replaced by your local jeweler. There is minor patina on some areas of the rose gold, which does not affect wear.
*This listing is for the item only. All display boxes and/or photography props do not come with your purchase.*
The History
The Art Nouveau era, 1890-1910, was also called “La Belle Epoque” in French, which translates to “A Beautiful Time.”  This was very true due to the gorgeous designs that came out of this period.  This era focused on women and the beauty of nature and the pieces were often large. Enamel was a common material used in Art Nouveau jewelry as the period was more about the importance of the design over the materials used to create it. The Art Nouveau period happened before the start of the first world war, when mass manufacturing took over the production of many products, including some jewelry.
Mughal jewelry emerged in India during the Mughal dynasty, beginning in the 16th century. Jewelry was an important symbol indicating a person’s status in society. The elite wore highly ornate and massively jeweled pieces. As the Mughal empire conquered the majority of India, the Mughal style spread to many other regions, being incorporated into many Indian cultures. Pieces usually display intricate designs, massive amounts of gemstones, and elaborate enameling.
Wedding bracelets have a long history stretching back centuries and were especially popular in 19th century Europe as Victorians looked back to the Middle Ages and Renaissance for influence in their art and jewelry. Historically, a groom would give his bride a beautifully engraved bracelet on their wedding day, but occasionally they would also be gifted in sets—one given upon engagement, and the other on the day of the wedding. Alternately these sets would come as two different sized bracelets, a larger one for the groom and the smaller for the bride. During the Victorian and Art Nouveau eras, these bracelets were also referred to as “handcuff bracelets” and were a symbol of matrimonial commitment, usually used in place of an engagement or wedding ring.
Turquoise is found all over the world and has been a popular semi-precious stone used in jewelry and art for thousands of years by many different cultures; from prehistoric times to the present. Turquoise comes in many beautiful color variations; from the popular bright solid sky-blue hues to dark blue hues with dark spiderwebbing throughout, as well as aqua, teal, and many green varieties, and even some rare white with dark spiderwebbing.
Seed pearls occur naturally and are used most often as a decorative border, as tiny accents in small patterns, or in larger clusters woven together to make up an entire piece of jewelry. They are normally less than 2 mm in diameter. They were imported from India and China and carried a hefty price tag due to this. Seed Pearl jewelry was used often for special occasions such as weddings, Mary Todd Lincoln received a seed pearl parure for Lincoln’s inauguration.
Domestic US
: All items ship within one business day of receiving payment. Buyers will have 3 base shipping options to choose from, depending on the needed speed of delivery. Pricing on single and multi-purchase transactions can be seen below:
Auction Items:
Base shipping + $2.00 per additional gold item & BIN items combine for free
BIN Items:
FREE
Base Shipping:
USPS
First Class
: $8.00 fully insured, estimated 3-5 business days
USPS
Priority Mail
: $12.00 fully insured, estimated 2-3 business days
USPS
Priority Express
: $25.00 fully insured, overnight delivery
International
: All packages are sent via USPS and pricing is based on buyer location. Each customer will receive a revised invoice at the close of the auction with an updated shipping rate. We will combine shipping on multiple purchases for free.
We do not undervalue packages for customs, please do not ask us to do so. What you pay is what we will claim on your customs form.
Please take this into consideration before placing your bid.
PayPal only. After 4 days of non-payment, an automated unpaid item case will be opened by our eBay system. If you need extra time for payment, please contact us prior to bidding.
If you find yourself not wanting to risk losing this piece during an auction, we will entertain Buy It Now offers. However, we will not accept any offers in the 24 hours prior to an auction ending. Please message us with your best offer, and if accepted, we will add a Buy It Now option to this piece for you.